Overview
Sihanoukville is Cambodia's coastal hub and the jumping-off point for the country's best tropical islands. The mainland city has changed dramatically over the past decade — the laid-back backpacker beach town many remember has been reshaped by casino and resort development, and most visitors today use it simply as a transit point. The real magic lies offshore, on a cluster of islands where palm-fringed beaches, bioluminescent plankton, and quiet fishing villages still feel untouched.
Plan your trip around the islands. Arrive in Sihanoukville, head straight to the ferry pier, and spend your nights on Koh Rong or Koh Rong Sanloem. If you have a late arrival, one night near the port is all you need.
The Islands at a Glance
| Island | Vibe | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Koh Rong | Lively, backpacker-friendly, party beaches + quieter bays | First-timers, nightlife, long beaches |
| Koh Rong Sanloem | Quiet, slow, barefoot-luxury feel | Couples, budget bungalows, total switch-off |
| Koh Ta Kiev | Rustic, off-grid, eco-bungalows | Hammock-and-book travellers, low-impact stays |
| Koh Russey (Bamboo) | Private island, single luxury resort | Alila Villas guests only |
| Song Saa (Koh Ouen & Koh Bong) | Ultra-luxury private island | Honeymoons, high-end escapes |
Koh Rong
The larger and livelier of the two main islands. The ferry arrives at Koh Touch — the busy strip with hostels, beach bars, and a backpacker party scene. Walk ten minutes in either direction and the crowds thin out fast.
Beaches Worth the Trek
- Long Set Beach (4K Beach) — A near-4km stretch of fine sand, calm water, and one of the best spots on the island for bioluminescent plankton on moonless nights
- Sok San Beach — Long white-sand beach on the west coast, a mix of a traditional fishing village (cheap stays) and a large resort
- Coconut Beach — Quiet southwestern bay, good shore snorkelling, 10 min walk from Daem Thkov village
- Lonely Beach — Secluded, accessible by boat or jungle hike, ideal for switching off
Things to Do
- Snorkel or dive around reefs near Coconut Beach and Lonely Beach
- Jungle trek across the island (Koh Touch → Long Set or Sok San, 1-2 hours)
- Kayak, paddleboard, or hire a longtail for island-hopping
- Evening bioluminescent plankton tour (~$5 per person, best on dark moonless nights)
Koh Rong Sanloem
Koh Rong's quieter twin — a 20-minute boat ride away. No roads, no traffic, and in most bays no nightlife past 10 PM. If you want to disappear for a few days, this is the island.
Main Beaches
- Saracen Bay — The main strip of resorts and mid-range bungalows on the east coast, long arc of soft sand, gentle swimming
- M'Pai Bay — Tiny fishing village on the north, a favourite with budget backpackers ($5-15 bungalows off-season)
- Lazy Beach — Remote west-coast beach, one sleepy resort, great snorkelling, excellent plankton
- Sunset Beach — Jungle-walk away from Lazy Beach, unbeatable sunsets, near-zero light pollution
Things to Do
- Do nothing — this is the island for it
- Snorkel directly off Lazy Beach or the reefs at the ends of Saracen Bay
- Night swim with bioluminescent plankton (Saracen Bay boat tour ~$5, or walk to the darker ends of M'Pai or Sunset Beach)
- Hike the jungle trails connecting Saracen Bay ↔ Lazy/Sunset Beach (45 min, bring water)
Other Islands
Koh Ta Kiev
A 13 km-coast eco-island about an hour from Sihanoukville by longtail ($10-13 round trip). No mains electricity, rustic bungalows and dorms, beach volleyball, kayaking, cliff jumps, jungle hikes. The island for travellers who want to unplug completely.
Koh Russey (Bamboo Island) & Song Saa
Both are private islands accessible only via their respective luxury resorts — Alila Villas Koh Russey and Song Saa Private Island (the country's only 5-star private-island resort, spanning Koh Ouen and Koh Bong). Expect honeymoon-grade pricing. Day visits are not available.
Getting to Sihanoukville
| From Phnom Penh | Cost | Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bus (Giant Ibis, Airbus) | $9-12 | 3-4.5 hrs | Most comfortable option |
| Shared minivan | $12-13 | ~3 hrs | Faster but cramped |
| Train (Royal Railway) | ~$11 | 6.5 hrs | Scenic, runs select days only |
| Private transfer | $80+ | ~3 hrs | Splits well for 3-4 people |
| Flight | $200+ | 5-17 hrs | Only indirect routes — skip it |
Direct PP → Sihanoukville flights are no longer operating. Buses are by far the best value.
Ferries to the Islands
Ferries depart from either the Sihanoukville Autonomous Port or Ochheuteal (Serendipity) Pier. Crossings take 30-45 minutes depending on operator and sea conditions.
Typical Fares (2026)
| Route | One-way | Return |
|---|---|---|
| Sihanoukville → Koh Rong | ~$25 | ~$30 |
| Sihanoukville → Koh Rong Sanloem | ~$14 | ~$28 |
| Koh Rong ↔ Koh Rong Sanloem | ~$10 | ~$15 |
| Sihanoukville → Koh Ta Kiev | ~$10-13 | (longtail, round trip) |
Operators
Buva Sea, Speed Ferry Cambodia, GTVC Speed Boat, Koh Rong Star Express, and Romny Tour Express. Departures typically run from 8 AM to 5 PM, with 4-7 crossings daily on each route.
Book online in high season (Nov-Feb) and arrive at the pier at least 30 minutes early to exchange your ticket for a boarding pass.
When to Visit
- Dry season (Nov-Feb) — Calm seas, clear water, best visibility for snorkelling. Busiest and priciest.
- Shoulder (Mar-Apr) — Hot but still dry, quieter
- Wet season (May-Oct) — Rain is usually short afternoon storms, but ferry schedules can be cancelled or delayed by rough seas. Cheaper accommodation, fewer crowds. Build buffer days into your trip.
Practical Tips
- Cash is king on the islands. ATMs exist on Koh Rong (Koh Touch) and Saracen Bay but charge high fees and run out. Bring enough USD for your whole stay.
- Wi-Fi is patchy — treat an island stay as a digital break
- Power on Koh Ta Kiev and parts of Koh Rong Sanloem runs on generators (limited evening hours)
- Pack reef-safe sunscreen and bug spray — mosquitoes and sandflies bite at dusk
- Stick to bottled water across all islands
Accommodation
- Koh Rong (Koh Touch / Long Set): Hostels $6-15, beach bungalows $25-60, resorts $80-200
- Koh Rong Sanloem (Saracen Bay): Mid-range bungalows $40-90, boutique resorts $100-250
- Koh Rong Sanloem (M'Pai Bay): Budget bungalows $5-20, small guesthouses $25-50
- Koh Ta Kiev: Eco-bungalows and dorms $10-40
- Sihanoukville mainland: Transit-only; budget guesthouses $15-30 near the port